the wines of Armand Rousseau
Chambertin Clos de Bèze
This is a wine of monastic heritage. In the 7th century, the Duke of Southern Burgundy gifted lands to the Abbey of Bèze for agricultural use. The monks, being partial to a sip of wine after prayers, opted to continue the Roman practice of plantings vines. They sectioned off a field for this purpose, and named it the Clos de Bèze.
Chambertin
This majestic Grand Cru is aged in 100 per cent new French oak, which adds depth and concentration to a wine that gains grace and elegance from the limestone soils and cool fruit. Abbé Claude Arnoux, another wine-loving monk, published his tome on the wines of Burgundy in 1723. He describes Chambertin as ‘the most considerable wine in all of Burgundy’. This epithet has survived the centuries to make Chambertin one of the most in-demand wines in the world, released on allocation from the estate, and feverishly fought over in auction rooms.
Charmes-Chambertin
Fragrance and florality are the defining qualities of Charmes-Chambertin. The Grand Cru is down the hill from its famous brother, Chambertin. The name is derived from chaume, meaning thatch, often found in abandoned fields in the medieval period. Rousseau cultivates from 1.37 hectares, and its Charmes is among the best from this vineyard, with delicate fruit, spicy flair and the potential to unfurl into undergrowth complexity as bottles age.
Clos des Ruchottes
Rousseau has owned the upper part of the Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru since 1976, as a walled monopole. The name is a corruption of rochots (little rocks), referring to the pebbly, infertile soil. This vineyard has beautiful exposure to the sun, and the wines are usually lightly coloured, piquant and silkily textured.
Mazy-Chambertin
North of Clos de Bèze is the Grand Cru of Mazy-Chambertin. Rousseau farms a tiny 0.53 hectare plot and produces Pinot Noir known for structure from firm tannins and ripe fruit. The label’s monastic calligraphy is wonderfully Gothic.
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques
The pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela passed through Burgundy, and a statue of Saint Jacques at this vineyard denotes its religious heritage. Although it is a Premier Cru vineyard on paper, the wines are generally considered to be of Grand Cru quality.
Clos de la Roche
South of the appellation of Gevrey-Chambertin is Morey Saint Denis, where the famous Grand Cru of Clos de la Roche is located. Legend has it that the name is derived from a huge rock that overhangs the vineyard, said to have been used as a druids’ sacrificial stone.